Tips for making your own Star Wars stormtrooper costume. DIY Star Wars: masks, accessories, crafts Paper Stormtrooper

Every fan should have a white stormtrooper helmet from the Star Wars saga. Interest in the universe created by George Lucas is so great that people are willing to spend a huge amount of money and time to create costumes exactly like the characters in the films. The characters and costumes of the story are so thought out that it is not at all easy to do.

Fans know that there are more than eight types of helmets alone. The suits of attack aircraft of different types of troops also differ from each other. But if a fan has firmly decided something, then nothing is impossible.

Creating a Star Wars Stormtrooper Suit Layout Design

The first step is to choose the costume to be made. Once you have decided, find as many high-quality images of the characters in costume as you can to see the outfit and equipment from different angles in great detail. For example, you can take the attack aircraft of the first order, the photo of which is given below.

It is necessary to carefully study the costume, select details and elements that can be replaced with ready-made things, for example, look for similar shoes among old shoes and simply paint them white, pockets and bandoliers can be replaced with plastic boxes, and black thin will perfectly play the role of an elastic wearable suit. turtleneck and knitted pants.

It is known that the armor of the stormtrooper from the first Star Wars film had 18 parts. Consider the level of detailing of the costume: instead of 18 parts, you can make 10, but the character's costume will still remain recognizable. The following image shows the main parts of the Stormtrooper suit armor.

In free access there are patterns of suits and helmets of attack aircraft. Finding patterns for your size will not be so easy. You can cut the suit according to ready-made patterns from plain paper, glue it and arrange a fitting. Selecting and editing finished drawings can take a lot of time and effort, sometimes it's easier to do from scratch than to edit a finished work. The drawings of the helmet are worthy of attention in the finished patterns - they can be safely taken to work.

Choosing the material for the attack aircraft suit

The choice of material predetermines all further work on the costume. The helmet can be made from plastic bottles, papier-mâché and cardboard. When choosing the first option, you will need to look for a bottle that is similar in shape and suitable in size, for papier-mâché you need to think about what to make the base from and whether the master’s artistic skills will be enough for this, and if you choose cardboard, you will still need putty or epoxy resin to strengthen the product.

Regardless of the material chosen, a lot of paintwork materials will be required:

• base for paint;
• white paint in a can;
• black paint in a can;
• glue;
• black electrical tape;
• felt-tip pen;
• sharp knife for cutting thick cardboard;
• scissors.

How to make a stormtrooper suit out of paper

For a stormtrooper suit, you will need a lot of thick cardboard. According to the layout of the outfit, they draw the details of the costume on cardboard. Next, the blanks are cut out with a special sharp knife, the necessary folds are made and tried on for the future attack aircraft. If necessary, the parts are shortened, the fastening system is thought out depending on the individual dimensions of the model.

Parts made from thin cardboard are easier to bend - they do not leave folds and they look better. The disadvantage of such armor will be their fragility. Putty can help in this situation. It is necessary to dilute the putty and apply a thin layer on the inside of the armor.

When the parts of the costume are fitted and processed, apply the base on them, and after drying, cover them with white spray paint. Black details are best applied with a felt-tip pen over white paint.

Costume detail

The most crucial moment in creating a do-it-yourself attack aircraft suit is detailing. Even if inaccuracies and flaws were made at the stage of creating armor blanks, adding small details to the existing base will help correct the suit and make it easily recognizable.

It is worth spending time in the toy store and trying to pick up the most similar models of plastic guns, boxes and other small and seemingly unimportant details. If you can't find elements similar in shape and size, you can use polymer clay to make jewelry. It is necessary to sculpt on top of the armor, cover with paint on top. Plastic weapons should also be painted in branded black and white colors.

Making a Stormtrooper Helmet

As mentioned earlier, for a helmet it is better to take ready-made patterns that need to be cut out of plain cardboard. The details of the helmet have a large number of small folds. All of them are carefully cut and glued. The photo below shows an already glued helmet.

To hide the joints, you can use electrical tape and glue the helmet. A thin layer of plaster must be applied on both sides. Then the helmet is painted and the details are applied. The costume is ready!

I live in a city with a long pedestrian street, where most of the shops, cafes, etc. are located. This is the most walkable street in our city. I had an idea, why not make a First Order Stormtrooper costume from Star Wars for handing out flyers. And not only for distribution, you can do animation, etc. People themselves will often approach a person in such a suit to take a photo, for example.

First of all, you need to install the Pepakura Designer program and download the scans you need. The suit is for a height of 176 cm, but the attack aircraft suit is universal, because it is a composite one, it will suit people ranging from 170 to 188, although you can always change the dimensions in the program itself.

The scans need to be printed on paper with a density of 200-220, this is the density of whatman paper. I glued it with PVA glue. This is how almost the entire printed and glued suit looks like. On many parts there are no struts yet.

I started with the helmet, unfortunately I did not immediately start taking photos, first I glued the helmet together, then reinforced it from the inside with polyester resin and glass mat. In no case should you work with this smelly rubbish at home, even on the balcony, the smell will disappear for a long time. I worked in the garage, be sure to wear a respirator and gloves. After I strengthened the helmet, I noticed that the front was very led, I had to cut it out, print it again and paste it.
Next, a few photos after puttying and sanding, I putty putty on wood, it is not toxic.



With the help of cold welding, I built up parts that were not in the paper scan. As a result, I reworked these parts 10 times. I also corrected the place above the bridge of the nose, in the sweep it was not protruding enough.
Half way to the end of the work, I learned about such a wonderful tool as a template pattern, although it has many other names, I ordered it on Ali. And then a long and hard work began, because I set myself the task of making the helmet as symmetrical as possible.

I found the midpoints on the helmet, drew circles with a compass, drew them and started from them to level the helmet on both sides.

I noticed that many people who made such helmets simply drilled holes for holes. And I wanted to make honeycombs, just like in the original helmet. I asked a friend who is engaged in laser cutting of metal, but nothing came of it, the distance between the holes was 0.7 mm, the metal twisted and led. An unexpected idea came to mind, why not cut a self-adhesive on a plotter and stick it in several layers? I went to an advertising agency, found out that cutting several A4 sheets would cost me almost 500 ye, they charge for the length of the cut, and it was at least 200 m. I remembered that at my last job there was a plotter and went there, asked the former boss for evening. This whole thing was cut for 8 hours.




10 glued layers gave the desired thickness of 1 mm.

Further, the final photos, black coloring is the primer. Before the primer, the helmet was cleaned with 440 sandpaper.



Next was a plastic casting, for this you need to make a copy of the helmet. All this time I was making a master model. This is done with silicone. I'll go ahead and say that I made several unsuccessful silicone castings, the final result is after 3 castings and then it was not successful enough, I had to putty a little, 4 casting would be the most ideal. Silicone over the helmet.

Glass mat and polyester shell

My mistake in 3 not very successful castings was in this glass mat shell, the fact is that if at least somewhere by 1 mm there is not enough fit with silicone, then the silicone will eventually bend and when poured with plastic, there will be dents on the copy. Only after 3 castings did I find out that there is a paste, it is thick and is used just to create a shell, it covers the entire area remarkably and freezes. It looks like plastic.

The photo shows the result of the last casting. Had to putty a little. How is it filled with plastic? The form is removed from the helmet, inserted into the shell, then two-component liquid plastic is poured into different cups in the same proportions, poured into one, mixed. Next, pour this glass into the helmet and start rotating, the plastic freezes in 15 minutes. This helmet took 860 grams of plastic. Together with painting and interior trim with foam rubber, the helmet weighs approximately 1-1.1 kg.

Next, I had the task of making a visor (lens) for the helmet, many cosplayers take a dense transparent cover and glue the car tint on top and paste it into the helmet, it looks good, but I wanted better. I wanted to make a convex glass, like in a real helmet. For this, an unsuccessful first casting came in handy, I cut out the part where the eyes are located and, using automotive putty, bolts, nuts, strengthened the bottom so that the form became solid. Then, with the help of cold welding, he began to shape the top.

Plexiglas with a thickness of 1.5 mm is easily bent with a building hair dryer. I made a transparent plexiglass lens, black translucent was unrealistic to find. I glued the tint, but there were folds in the places of the bend, even the building hair dryer did not help. Unexpectedly, in the car market, I found a black translucent plexiglass, a car deflector is perfect for a lens.

Next up is airbrushing. My total expenses for the creation of a suit and a helmet today are about 500 cu, this cost includes tools, materials, by the way, I often used cold welding, according to my calculations, 1 kg was spent. Silicone and plastic are not cheap. Almost the entire costume is reinforced with polyester and glass mat, but not puttied yet. A few final photos. More than 500 hours of work have been spent on the helmet.

Further, my plans are to complete the entire costume, convert the helmet from one casting into the helmet of Captain Phasma and complete the helmet of Kylo Ren, I already found the original fabric as in the movie for sewing a costume on a foreign site.

Why is so much time wasted? 500 hours for sure, maybe more, many times I redid the same sections to bring out the symmetry, up to 1 mm.

I have a friend. He's a fan of Star Wars stormtrooper ammo. To understand how much he is a fan about seven years ago, he glued a full-sized helmet made of paper, of course, he did not live long, but he brought a huge amount of enthusiasm. Personally, I would never have that kind of patience.

When I got a printer, the first question he asked me was whether it was possible to print a similar helmet on it. Naturally, I said yes and promised that sooner or later I would pile him such a present. The word is not a sparrow. Yes, and his birthday is coming soon. In general, thinking after the New Year holidays, I took up this project.

I found the model of the helmet on tingverse (I won’t give a link, it’s so elementary here and there). And started printing. Initially, I started printing from ABS from greg on a plush printer. The print didn't work. Permanent bundles in high models. In general, I had to change my profile to PLA.

I ordered snow white from FDplast and it started.

It took about a week of daily printing on a single printer with a 0.4 nozzle to print all the elements.

Plastic snow white, contrary to expectations and reviews, turned out to be quite problem-free for such a project and did not cause any trouble.

We start pre-assembly on masking tape:

Glue with a mixture of supports and dichloroethane. At first I tried to apply the mixture with a brush. Well, I’ll tell you what to do .. Then, peeping here, I began to use a medical syringe for a couple of cubes for this. things got a lot more fun. The main thing after work is to empty the syringe and leave it open. Then it can be reused. Do not try to store glue in a syringe. Throw away both the glue and the syringe.

When gluing, there were small discrepancies in the form of voids between the last seams. The largest gap was about three millimeters. It appeared as a result of incorrect calibration of the printer table, the first layers were practically eaten. When assembling the gap, I filled it with a mixture of dichloroethane with supports dissolved in it, and put pieces of filament into a large gap and filled them in the same way. In general, for such purposes, a 3d pen is needed, which I expect in the near future.

After gluing, I covered the model with primer from a spray can in order to see all the jambs of the model:

I chose white soil. Then the dreary days of puttying and sanding began. The results that my imagination drew in my head, I did not achieve for a number of reasons:

1) hands from w .. I don’t know how;

2) winter, at home the spouse did not allow this to be done because of the smells;

3) terrible once.

In general, as a result, after painting, this is what happened:

I painted with enamel from a spray can on the street (at minus 15), having applied a layer, I brought the model into the room and let it warm up again. It turned out to put five layers while hiding all the flaws. Black was applied first from a spray can, after pasting over the model, and then corrected with simple acrylic paint for models. The producer is a star it seems. He also corrected his clumsiness from black paint with their white paint.

I did not use what was used in the model for the design of the eye sockets. Instead, I used a clear document cover and glued it on the inside with a hot glue gun. From the inside, I toned the film of the eye sockets with a piece of car tinting.

The helmet is very uncomfortable on the head. So I found an old helmet and removed the head harness from it. In order to fix it, I modeled four mounts

Which I glued onto a mixture of dichloroethane and plastic inside the helmet. Here's what happened:

Now the helmet sits on the head very tightly, does not cause discomfort, allows you to freely turn your head. The only thing is that you don't look like it for a long time. The helmet is quite deep and needs additional ventilation holes. there was an idea to make through holes in the recesses of the mask and close them from the inside with a black cloth. But this is just a thought for now.

Of course the helmet is far from ideal. Perhaps in the summer, together with a friend, we will sand it again and paint it under normal conditions.

And so far so.